The first step after attaching the containers was to drill the hole for the display stand. This whole display stand process was stressful for me as I have never built a stand before, and I had to spend a long time researching how it is done, and how I was going to do it. I decided I would simply use a brass tube glued into both the model and display stand. I purchased some brass tubing but after drilling the hole with a 2.3.. pin-vice bit into the base of the model and the plastic light switch blanking plate (the stand base), I realised it was too large to fit. I could not make the hole larger as there was not enough space on the model, so I had to suck it up and order some brass rod from eModels. As no-one in the enitre world seems to sell 2.3mm brass rod, I got some 2mm and 2.5mm rod instead. For some bizarre reason, the 2.5mm rod fit snugly into the 2.3mm hole, so I was good to go. I didn’t want to waste the large brass tube I already had, so I decided to use the tube as a sheath to go outside the brass rod attached to the model. This would also allow me to not worry about getting paint on the internal brass rod and not have to fuss masking it off (which was now superglued into the ship). The brass rod was cut with a bog-standard junior hacksaw with metal-cutting blade and filed a little with my modelling file tools.
One pleasant surprise was that the glue that had been recommended by the staff at eModels (Javis thick red) was far superior to anything I had used before. I had been worried about the construction because when I had used CA glue in the past it had been stringy, gloopy, messy and did not stick well. This was fine. The only occasional problem was that although you normally had a few seconds to adjust a piece once it had been attached to the model, from time to time the glue worked INSTANTLY and did not permit adjustment, making me all “Dude, not cool”. Which was annoying when gluing the containers to the side of the ship, as there are no locating pins and you need to be able to wiggle it around to get it all lined up.
Sometimes you have to plan the painting a few steps ahead, and in this case I decided to add a layer of dry-brushed Tamiya Red Brown to the ship, on top of the black and German Grey areas. This would be the base coat for the rust. Once this had dried I would mask off some little patches with liquid masking fluid and a cocktail stick. Then, once I had painted the ship I would remove the masking fluid and the rust layer would show through the paint above as chipped and rusted patches. Apologies, I forgot to take a shot of the masking. Here’s the ship with the dry-brushed Red Brown. I was being liberal with it as I knew much of it would not be seen (and I dry-brushed in patches as I wanted some of the rust spots to be patchy and a mix of rust and black).
I used a small selection of 5802 Abteilung colours including the usual Starship Filth and Light and Dark Rust. Firstly I added a wash or two of Starship Filth to darken any grooves and panel lines, especially around the command module, which was looking a little flat. When this had dried, I carefully dry-brushed lighter complementary colours around the ship to lighten the raised areas. When this had dried, the last thing I did was to add little touches of Light and Dark Rust in spots with a cocktail stick to the exposed areas of the earlier Red Brown layer, to break up the brown patches and give them some darker bits and some orangey bits, more like real, uneven rust. Look at the container on the left in the last two pictures – first you can see the Red Brown rust spots, and in the last image the spot after the oil paint has been added with the stick. It is very subtle but it makes a difference (and is easier to see in real life but not so obvious in a picture).
Then I happened to be at Atlantic Timber in Altrincham for another reason and asked the guy if he could cut, rout and drill a piece of wood of MDF for a stand – he said sure, and made one for me. Sweet! I went back later with a piece of the brass rod so he could make sure it fit snugly in whatever hole he drilled. I sanded the MDF, primed it and sprayed a couple of coats of Tamiya Flat Black onto it. Looking back on it, next time I will get a real wood base and not MDF as the edges of the stand are rough (being MDF).
And with that, I VERY CAREFULLY superglued the mounted model into the base, and held it in place for a minute whilst it set. Seems to be a good firm bond, so hopefully it will stay attached. And with that, the build was complete!
I commend Timeslip on this kit, and heartily recommend it to anyone. If you have a shakey -jakey painting hand, the size may cause you issues, but if you are looking for a simple build that you can focus on painting rather than building, this tiny resin kit is a good place to start!
Thanks as always for reading, and make sure to check out the gallery pictures of the completed piece. I’m not sure what the next project will be, or when (as money is a little tight right now) but stay tuned. Follow me on the modelmaking.guru Facebook page to stay updated! And if you have you own builds, send me pictures for the Reader's Gallery or post them on the Facebook page so I can share them on the blog!
Until next time, thanks for stopping by and keep building!